Alpinist Magazine

Alpinist 70 Magazine Spring/Summer 20

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The Magnificent Obsession
At 8125 meters, Nanga Parbat has seen more winter attempts to date than any other 8000-meter peak. Before climbers made the first winter ascent in 2016, Polish alpinist Krzysztof Wielicki had described the feat as "pure science fiction." Bernadette McDonald recounts stories from the history of winter climbing on the notorious peak. Meanwhile, Elisabeth Revol shares visions of her days on the "mountain of paradox."
In 2002 Craig DeMartino survived a hundred-foot ground fall. After doctors fused vertebrae in his back and neck, he decided to have his right leg amputated below the knee. He now mentors others who have suffered life-altering injuries, all while making the most of life with his wife and kids.
Encounter with the Alien
In August 2000, Jeff Smoot was climbing near Monte Cristo peak when a stranger with wild red hair passed by him alone. Later, as reports of a missing hiker emerged on the news, Smoot realized that he might've been the last person to see him alive. Amid strange reports of alien conspiracies and clandestine research, Smoot searches for the true story of Mike Wessels and what might've compelled him to climb alone that day.
The Monochromatic Mountain
As he flies above the peaks, photographer John Scurlock searches for a glimpse of the view that he'd always sought as a climber. Herein, Scurlock describes the journey toward the perspective that he's come to call "the Monochromatic Mountain."