THE guide to Shuteye Ridge rock climbing. Shuteye, on the west side of California’s Sierra Range, is truly a climbers’ paradise, encompassing over 60 areas strewn along a picturesque ridge. Long neglected in favor of better-known California areas such as Tahquitz Rock (covered here) and the Needles (covered here), this potpourri of rainbow-colored crags has finally come into its own.
Shuteye is renowned for its bullet hard and highly featured granite, with most of the climbing sitting at between 6000 and 7500 feet, perfect for summer cragging. There are the usual perfect slab climbs here, and excellent cracks of all varieties, but also many steep (often overhanging) walls covered with with alligator-skin plates for some of the juggiest climbing you’ll ever do on granite. Variety rules at this vast climbing area. Some crags are easy to reach, while others require some serious 4WD adventure driving. Choose your own adventure! Routes range from easy, low-angle, multi-pitch jaunts, to fierce 5.13+ overhanging testpieces. Added to all that, climbs here are part of a beautiful landscape with breathtaking views. Camping is plentiful and free. In other words, what more could you ask for?!